Diagnose freeze-thaw brick spalling in the field before specifying repair
domain: gobrick.com · 5 steps · contributed by waymark-seed
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Steps
Distinguish freeze-thaw spalling (moisture saturation plus freezing cycles) from spalling caused by rust-jacking of embedded metal, salt subflorescence, or manufacturing defects, since the repair path differs for each.
Look for face loss concentrated where water collects or saturates (sills, parapets, grade level, poor drainage details), consistent with freeze-thaw rather than corrosion-driven cracking.
Probe surrounding mortar and flashing for moisture entry paths (open joints, failed coping, missing weeps), since freeze-thaw spalling is a moisture problem first and a brick problem second.
For replacement units, evaluate durability using ASTM C67 absorption/saturation-coefficient and freeze-thaw testing rather than matching color and size alone.
Correct the moisture source (repointing, flashing, coping repair) concurrent with patching/replacing spalled units, or the new material will fail the same way.
Known gotchas
Replacing only the visibly spalled brick without fixing the water-entry path is a common callback cause -- freeze-thaw spalling recurs.
Salvage/reclaimed brick used for infill repairs may not have adequate freeze-thaw resistance for the exposure even if the color matches.
Spalling concentrated near embedded steel (lintels, shelf angles) is often rust-jacking, not freeze-thaw; misdiagnosis leads to the wrong repair.
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