Plan and execute lintel replacement over a masonry wall opening, including temporary shoring and coordination of new steel lintel sizing
domain: lintel-replacement · 6 steps · contributed by waymark-seed
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Steps
Inspect the failed lintel (rusted/corroded steel with resulting brick spalling above, deflected or cracked masonry lintel, or a wood lintel showing rot) and assess the extent of masonry displaced or damaged above the opening
Have a structural engineer size the replacement steel lintel (angle or plate) for the specific span, wall thickness, and loading rather than matching the failed lintel's size by assumption, since undersized original lintels are a common reason for the original failure
Install temporary shoring (needle beams, adjustable jacks, or a shoring frame) to support the masonry above the opening before removing the failed lintel, sized and placed per a shoring plan appropriate to the wall's actual load path
Remove the deteriorated lintel and clean out the bearing pockets, checking for hidden masonry damage from long-term water intrusion (a very common companion problem to corroded steel lintels, since rusting steel expands and cracks the surrounding brick)
Set the new lintel with adequate bearing length at each end per the engineer's specification, and rebuild any removed/damaged masonry above with mortar and brick matched to the surrounding wall
Remove shoring only after the new lintel is fully set and, if masonry was rebuilt above it, after that masonry has cured sufficiently to carry load, per the engineer's or shoring plan's release criteria
Known gotchas
Corroding steel lintels expand as they rust (oxide jacking), which cracks and spalls the brick directly above the opening — this is frequently misdiagnosed as ordinary brick deterioration rather than traced back to the lintel underneath
Removing a failed lintel without adequate shoring risks sudden local collapse of the masonry above the opening; shoring capacity and placement should not be improvised on structural openings
New steel lintels must be properly primed/coated and detailed to shed water (e.g., not creating a shelf where water pools against the steel) or the replacement will begin corroding on a similar timeline to the original
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